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East to West Tour North France September 2024

Another great trip into France. After last years trip which basically circled the whole country the idea for this trip was to head as far West as possible. Starting in the East and the Champagne area we travelled as far west in Britany a possible. 2 intrepid explorers set off. Likeminded in riding style and also interests in the culinary experience we opted to try and stay at as many ´Table Distinguee ´restaurants under the Logis categorisation as possible. We did quite well with 5 of the 8 stays achieving our aim. The idea was to combine our riding with great cuisine at the end of each day. In some locations we had a spa facility which was very welcome at the end of long day riding. Menus at the restaurants varied from 35 to 60 euros! In the following reports I´ve given a brief overview of the ride itself but have tried to give as much detail as possible on the stays and food.

The Website links to hotels and Restaurants are all the establishments 'own sites but these can all be found through the Logis platform as well which is where all bookings were placed. 

Enjoy !

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Tour overview
 
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Day 1. The Hague to Verdun, France - 430 km

September trip back to France. 2 riders set off on Friday morning and headed on the motorway through Belgium to the French Borders. Crossing the border just south of Charlois the road took us along the empty and fabulous A 35 motorway as far as Sedan. Then the road veered eastwards towards Verdun. Weather was warm but      overcast. A stop at the Verdun WW1 ossuary was impressive and then it was on to our overnight stay at the Relais de la Voie Sacree. This location was outstanding. Located in a small hamlet just off the main Voie Sacree, this Logis hotel has great little but comfortable rooms and a ´Table Distinguee´ classification. Food was excellent at reasonable rates. Early night and ready for the next days foray into the French Champagne area! 

 

Day 2. Verdun to Chaource - 313km. 

We left the hotel around 0930 and the temperature was already up around 23 degrees. Beautiful sunshine we headed south down into the Parc National de Forets. Temperature continued to climb as the day progressed to around 30 degrees  with the route now taking us westwards and then north to Les Ricey in the center of the Champagne area of France. Slight westerly deviation again landed us at our Hotel Aux Maison which also had the prestigious Table Distinguee classification. Hotel was very nice with a superb indoor spa and swimming pool. Rooms were simple but again the cuisine superb and well worthy of its accreditation. Later in the evening we were subjected to a superb thunder and lighting show and wet on for several hours. Again an early night and ready for day 3. 

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Day 3. Chaource to Blere - 300 km

Beautiful sunny morning greeted us as we set off from Chaource south Westwards. Being Sunday we realized that trying to find a lunch stop in France was going to be difficult. The route took us directly South West towards the Loire valley and on our way we managed to find a lunch stop in a beautiful little town which had outside seating for lunch. A good French style lunch and then we continued on our trip along the Loire Valley to our final stop in the town of Blere. The last 50 km of the route was along the Loire river valley but this was less than attractive, passing through built up and industrial areas. Hoping tomorrow would be a bit more picturesque we headed to our overnight stop at the Cheval Blanc. Another Table Distinguee category restaurant however the hotel itself was a bit old with outdated decor but was clean and comfortable and thankfully also had a swimming pool albeit outside. Dinner was very traditional French style and also worthy of its categorization. After dinner again early night and ready for day 4

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Day 4. Blere to Paimpont - 322km  

Day 4 started a bit damp, it having rained overnight and the morning was a bit misty. The route took us North West along the Loire valley which after the first 20 km was very beautiful. The Loire river is a hugely wide expanse of water with islands all the way down. The road took us right along its shores. Beware, there are very few fueling opportunities in this area of places to stop for food and drink. Being a Monday also much was closed. After diverting northwards away from the Loire river the route takes you into expansive countryside and eventually into the edge of Britany and the land of folklore and magicians.

We arrived at our overnight stop The Hotel Le Relais de Broceliande. Hotel was very nice with lovely rooms however the restaurant which was actually categorized with the blue ´´Table Savreux´´, was only serving a set buffet menu. We decided to walk across the road into a village high street and had a great dinner in the small restaurant close to the hotel. Great local Cidre was  available as well. 

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Day 5. Paimport to Pospoder -  333km 

Again a lovely morning although temperatures were late teens as opposed to mid 20´s.  We headed Westwards towards the Britany coast passing through many villages and towns before finally getting to the sea.  Even at the lower end of Britany the coast with its inlets and high hills is spectacular. The road winds its way along the coast and many seaside villages until we arrived at our overnight stay at the Chateau de Sable. This hotel is amazing. Beautiful modern large sized rooms with a modern and environmental friendliness featured in its design. Situated right against the dunes with views out over the dunes to the lighthouses and bays this really is a special place. Also the restaurant is special with its Table Distinguee well earned. Menu is fixed and not cheap but we managed to get a ´´business overnight stay´´ via the Logis website and reduction on the fixed menu price. All in all a saving of 150 euros against the standard room rate and menu. Well worth a return visit and the best restaurant and hotel on the whole trip. 

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Day 6. Pospoder to Ducey - 334km. 

Stormy weather over Pospoder as we left at 0900 although the rain came long after we had left and we stayed ahead of the rain all the way to our end station. The longest day of the tour and along the beaches of Britany to Mt St Michel. The roads were open and empty as the route took us both away from but also along the coast of Britany and the beautiful towns and villages. The final part of the route heads past Mt St Michel although access to the Mount is no longer possible with shuttle buses running across the causeway ferrying tourists to and from the Mount. Our evening stop over was in the small town of Ducey about 20 km east of Mt St Michel at the Auberge de la Selune. Another quaint hotel with small but comfortable rooms but most importantly another Table Distinguee restaurant. The chef this time is a French - Japanese gent who certainly knows how to prepare a good menu. Another delightful evening with good food and Normandy Cidre!

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Day 7. Ducey to Neufchatel en Bray. 331 km.  

A bright start although rain did hamper the afternoon part of the days ride, however with good rain gear and a bit of caution we were still able to enjoy the tour. The route took us north towards the Town of Deauville and Tourville close to Honfleur. Stopping for a great seafood lunch in Deaville we then headed over the Pont de Normandy deep into Calvados and cider country. The countryside is lovely to ride with long sweeping bends and little traffic. The overnight stay was the Hotel Les Airelles. Nice comfortable hotel with clean albeit older rooms and again a great restaurant. Although not the highest class, the blue label was well worthy and menu same. Some great ciders to chose from as well. 

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Day 8. Neufchatel en Bray to Nouvion - 259km  

Last full day of the tour. We headed westwards towards Amiens and the WW1 battle fields. A stop at the 3 main visiting points of Ulster Tower, Thiepval memorial and the Canadian memorial at Beaumont Hamel are always impressive and moving. After this we headed further west and north closer to the Belgian Border. This area of France in my mind is a bit tired looking in general. Our overnight stay was at the Hotel la Paix in the small town of Nouvion. A good dinner in a blue rated restaurant with some great cider as well and an very early night as next morning was our early start to return back to Rotterdam.

 

All in all a great tour and on to the next one next year. Roll on 2025! 

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