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Grand Tour de France September 2023
Our second trip into France. After the great experience of 2022 we decided a bit of a bigger explore was required so we planned the Grand Tour which was set for September 2023 and was 9 days in total. The idea was to get a good impression of France, the hotels and riding. All was again booked using the Logis de France website and we took care to go for places that had the ''blue'' coding for food. This meant a bit more up market than your standard fare. Budget for the trip was EURO 200 per day all in and actually we came in exactly at that amount. The trip took us through Belgium, which unfortunately is very run down in the south and then south through Champagne region into the national parks, west to Bordeaux and then back north. Experience was excellent and lodgings did not disappoint. Here is the trip with details of hotels, riding and some photos to show where we went. Enjoy!
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Day 1. The Hague to Vienne le Chateau, France - 380km
We set off from Rotterdam around 1000 from the MacDonalds, and headed south on the A16 down towards Antwerp. Following the motorway to Brussels and on to Gent and then a bit of off motorway and into northern France. The roads in France were quiet and open. Weather was hot at around 35 degrees. Luckily I had purchased a Macna cooling vest which really did it job on this trip as the days were well over 30 degrees at the start of our trip.
Once over the border we took smaller roads to our first overnight stop in the small village of Vienne Le Chateau.
The hotel was the Tulipier and was very good. Food excellent; rooms adequate and the bonus was a pool which after 5 hours riding was a real welcome surprise. Early night to bed and ready for day 2 and the real start of the France adventure!
Day 2. Vienne le Chateau to Caree les Tombes - 258km.
Upon leaving the hotel at 1000 the temperature was already over 25 degrees. The day only got hotter recording a top of 37 as we approached our destination. This part of France is quite flat so the roads were long with sweeping bends and pleasant countryside to ride through. The route takes you through the wonderful champagne country with many places to stop and buy. We struggled a bit for lunch arrangements as so much was either full or closed, settling in the end of a sandwich at a local bar. Our overnight stay was in the small village of Carre les Tombes and the Hotel Le Morvan. This little gem had very pleasant rooms and the cuisine was incredible. By far the best on the whole tour. Some good food and wine and then an early night to prepare for the next day.
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Day 3. Caree les Tombes to St Sauve d'Auvegne - 318km
Again spectacular weather greeted us the following morning and around 0930 we were off heading further South. Through Le Morvan and beautiful countryside, great roads and again quite flat land. Our overnight stop was the Hotel de la Poste. A quaint small hotel in the village of St Sauve with only 3 rooms!. The hotel restaurant was closed for the evening so we rode the 4km into the town of La Bourboules which is located on the Dordogne river. We found a restaurant for dinner which served good local fair. After less wine than usual it was back to our hotel for the night.
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Day 4. St Sauve to Cajarc. 285km.
Dat 4 started a bit damp, it having rained overnight and the morning was a bit misty. The temperature had dropped to around 20 which made the start of the trip much more comfortable. We set off heading still further south and after a fuel stop at the local supermarket managed to lose one of our party. Contact attempts failing 2 riders headed off into the very twisty roads and the mountain peaks in the Aubrac Park region of France. Roads were extremely twisty and in some points very narrow so the speed was drastically reduced but the views from the tops of the mountain passes were spectacular.
Onwards and back down the mountain passes we turned westward towards the town of Figeac and our final destination in Cajarc. The Hotel La Peyrade was our overnight stop which was simple but pleasant enough. Here we met up with our lost party who had decided to go for the end station and had arrived a few hours ahead of us. Another good dinner and early retirement ready for day 5.
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Day 5. Cajarc to Puissiguin. 255km.
For the first time on the trip we set out in light rain which lasted for about 30 minutes. The route took us west along the River Lot which was spectacular and then north up towards the Dordogne river. We stopped for lunch in the village of Tremolat and then headed due west past Bergerac and to St Emillion. Through the town and then north through beautiful wine fields to our overnight stop at the Hotel Fleur du Roque. This is an old wine Chateau changed into a hotel. By far the most spectacular place to stay with beautiful rooms and swimming pool which was refreshing to say the least. Dinner was a little below our normal standards and certainly did not live up to the ''blue'' Logis rating that we were used to. Costs for the hotel and food were on the high side but it was relaxing nonetheless. Early night and ready for day 6!
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Day 6. Puissiguin to Montcountant. 256km.
Day 6 and another spectacular day. After breakfast we left our Chateau and headed further north into the wine fields both of wine and then into the Cognac region. Past the Hennessey factory where we were not able to get in to look around and then into rather flat but beautiful sweeping roads towards our next overnight stay in the town of Moncoutant. The hotel appears to be a roadside motel but nothing farther from the truth. Rooms were nice and modern all with aircon and the dining again lived up to the blue Logis grade. Rates very reasonable and parking was right outside the door! Great recommendation at the Hotel St Pierre.
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Day 7. MonCoutant to Clecy, Normandy. 285km.
Yet another warm day although down on recent days with temperatures around 25 degrees. Another day of sweeping bends in the low country of France as we headed north up towards Normandy. Scenery clearly changes from area to area and the final leg of our trip actually ended in the ''Suisse Normande'' which is quite a hilly area. Our final destination was the small village of Clecy and our overnight stray in the Hotel Au Site Normande. Hotel was a bit tired in places but the cuisine yet again well worthy of the ''blue'' Logis rating. Excellent fare and this time instead of wine we were able to savour the local cidre which Normandy is famous for.
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Day 8. Clecy to Bremicourt. 315km
Another beautiful day although misty leaving Clecy. Heading north east through Normandy and rather flat country we experienced some extremely long and straight roads with a lot of speed cameras. Not the most interesting of journeys but due to the road conditions and despite the speed traps we did manage to make good headway arriving at our final overnight stay in Bremicourt around 1630. The final stay at the Hotel La Cour de Remi was the best. Rooms beautiful and very spacious and the food excellent. Again good Normandy cidre available and the ambience was very quiet and relaxing. The hotel and restaurant was in the grounds of the Chateau Bremicourt and clearly were renovated stables. The Chateau itself was owned by the family running the hotel and restaurant and had some history as well; it had been used by the tank regiment in 1915 during WW1 as their command HQ. Well worth a return visit!
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Day 9. Bremicourt to Rotterdam. 330km
Final leg of our trip. For the first time the weather turned autumnal. Grey skies and early morning mist. After a good breakfast we headed north towards the Belgium border. Slight detour on the home leg we decided to go through the tunnel at Ternuezen and head back to Rotterdam via the ''Islands'' and Neeltje Jans, finally parting company and going our separate ways at the Rotterdam A20 intersection.
Yet again a very pleasant tour into France Great roads, great lodging and typically French exceptional food. Well worth a revisit in future and the next tour is lready in the planning. Roll on 2024!!
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